Iceland: Dancing With Nature
Written by: Siggi Bjarni Sveinsson
Flateyri, the small village in the west of Iceland with only around 200 inhabitants, survived two catastrophic avalanches. Despite all the challenges, obstacles, and traumatic experiences it is living proof of goodwill, human resilience, and determination.
A year ago, I received an invitation to lead outdoor leadership sessions at the Flateyri Folk School. Located in the west of Iceland, this small town of 200 inhabitants is surrounded by steep mountainsides along the fjord, Önundarfjörður.The essence of Flateyri and its residents stirred something profound within me. Their genuine care for one another, even towards a stranger like myself, spoke volumes about their way of life. Despite their own commitments, they generously devoted time to supporting my lifestyle, offering invaluable insights, and ensuring my safety in the rugged terrain.But it was more than just their hospitality; it was their resilience in the face of adversity that truly resonated with me. Having endured the trauma of avalanches in both 1995 and 2020, their collective spirit and determination to rebuild inspired me a lot. Their optimism reminded me of life's brevity and the importance of embracing positivity amidst challenges.Flateyri's community became an important part of me, illuminating the path towards personal growth and fulfillment. As my time in the west ended, I carried with me cherished memories and a newfound appreciation for the strength of the human spirit and the power of community.A year after my time at the life school, I found myself planning an adventure with my friend Rožle Bregar from Slovenia. Eager to share the incredible atmosphere and stunning natural beauty of Flateyri, I convinced him to join me on the journey. With our skis and camera gear, we headed to the Westfjords, curious to see how our story would unfold.
Upon our arrival, we saw that the snow conditions were not ideal for ski touring. We decided to spend some time acquainting ourselves with the town and letting our plans take shape organically. Within just two hours, we found ourselves immersed in the warmth of the local community. Residents approached us, eager to learn about our intentions and offer their guidance on how to make the most of our time in the area. In that moment, we recognized that the true magic of Flateyri lay not only in its natural beauty but also in the genuine warmth and energy of its people.We enjoyed brunch at Dúi and Sigga's farm near Flateyri. Dúi shared his experience of the 1995 avalanche, a devastating event that changed the town forever. At 4 a.m. the residents of Flateyri were abruptly awoken by a harrowing event—an avalanche of monumental proportions had struck, engulfing a sizable portion of their town, obliterating everything in its path and burying residents and buildings beneath it. In the aftermath, the survivors faced the daunting task of coordinating rescue efforts and searching for their loved ones amidst the chaos. First responders from nearby towns and fishing ships were summoned to assist in the search and rescue operations, compounded by the relentless severe weather.
As we delved deeper into their history, we couldn't help but feel a profound sense of humility and gratitude for the opportunity to meet the resilient residents of Flateyri. Inspired by their spirit, we went on a ski touring mission to a mountain peak, aiming to witness the sunset casting its golden glow over the majestic Westfjords.As we ascended, few words were exchanged between us, yet we were enveloped in a shared sense of appreciation and awe.The experience was transformative as we glided down the slopes. Against the backdrop of the tranquil fjords, the parallel of beauty and cruelty struck us deeply, reminding us of the fragility and resilience of life.Steinunn is a former fisherwoman who has lived in Flateyri all her life. She shared her experience in the avalanche 2020. Despite the devastation, she felt uplifted by the unwavering support of the community and the entire nation of Iceland. A fighter awakened within her, compelling her to persevere and adapt to the challenges of living in harmony with nature. In response to these unforeseen events, the residents of Flateyri banded together to rebuild and enhance their safety measures. They constructed a massive avalanche barrier to shield the town from future disasters and acquired an Icelandic-designed emergency boat capable of navigating all weather conditions. This vessel proved crucial, especially during emergencies when road access to the town was cut off, allowing for swift evacuation and assistance.Steinunn's story underscored the indomitable spirit of the Flateyri community, demonstrating their resilience and determination to thrive despite adversity. It was a testament to their ability to find strength and unity in the face of hardship, inspiring us with their unwavering resolve and resourcefulness.
Rožle and I embarked on our adventure, eager to immerse ourselves in the untamed beauty of the Westfjords. Guided by the recommendations of the locals, we ventured to a remote area nestled high in the mountains. Aware of the impending weather, we enlisted the support of the community as a safety precaution, leaving detailed plans with them before setting out. With our camp packed into a sled, we ascended to the mountain pass, relishing the opportunity to ski in the pristine wilderness. As evening descended, we established our campsite, sheltered from the elements yet surrounded by the rugged majesty of the landscape. However, the weather soon took a turn for the worse, with fierce winds and heavy precipitation sweeping through the mountains.We took shelter in our camp, we shared a simple yet satisfying meal of dried fish, and a precooked meal, grateful for the warmth and protection it provided. However, as the weather intensified, we made the decision to shorten our adventure, mindful of the potential risks of becoming stranded in such remote terrain. With a sense of fulfillment from our day's explorations and gratitude for the experience, we retraced our steps back to the welcoming embrace of Flateyri. Ensuring our contacts were informed of our safe return, we reflected on the inherent unpredictability of nature and the importance of exercising caution and respect when venturing into the wilderness.
We had the pleasure of meeting Sigga, the school principal of the folk school, during our time in Flateyri. The folk school has provided Flateyri with new opportunities for growth and development. By utilizing local resources and services, it not only supports the economy of the area but also offers young adults the chance to live in harmony with nature. This gift of life is truly precious, fostering a sense of belonging and purpose among residents. I was particularly excited to learn about the school's plans to launch an international department, offering young adults from around the world the same transformative experiences. Inspired by this initiative, Rožle and I were eager to be a part of this journey and contribute to changing lives for the better. It's a small spark of life experience that our world desperately needs.As our week in Flateyri drew to a close, Rožle and I embarked on a quiet drive back to Reykjavik, reflecting deeply on our experiences in the Westfjords. Along the way, we decided to make a stop at a hot spring nestled by the ocean bed. It was during this serene moment that I felt a profound resonance with the spirit of Flateyri on a deeply personal level.Witnessing the resilience of Flateyri in the face of unimaginable tragedy, I was deeply moved by the strength and unity of its residents. Their history is etched in the very fabric of the town's spirit and character, a testament to their unwavering resolve to thrive and build a brighter future. Despite their hardships, they have managed to generously share their stories and inspire others with their humanity. It's a once-in-a-lifetime chance to attend their folk school and become an integral part of their community—a unique opportunity in life.No traveler should take the attitude of Flateyri's residents for granted. Instead, we should all be inspired by their example and strive to give back to the communities that touch our lives. The people of Flateyri navigate life with humility and grace, teaching us invaluable lessons on how to harmonize and dance with nature.